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Baskets baskets baskets

March 8, 2017

I've found a new obsession. It feeds my love of crochet, homewares and recycled stuff. Baskets are such a versatile item with so many applications. From a simple key bowl to a new project basket. 

 

These delicious baskets are created with a jersey knit fabric, they can be found in many online stores or your local yarn shop. I have seen some crafters create their own from old shirts. I won't touch on that in this post but the options there if you're feeling crafty.

 

These are some of my most recent creations. In this post I want to share with you the process of creating a simple round bottom bowl. 

This is by far the simplest and fastest basket to create. Its so rewarding and can fit easily into your home and be put straight to use.

 

 

There is some assumed knowledge with this pattern. You'll need to know how to create a magic loop, chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st) and double crochet (dc). I hope the photos give you a clear step by step guide on how to create these gorgeous baskets and bowls. 

 

If your all over the process and don't want the full photo and txt explanation I've created a PDF version for you to download HERE. This includes a large and small bowl and the wide flat basket pictured above. 

 

Hook: 10mm

Yarn: Jersey Knit fabric

 

Ok guys enough of that, lets get started and crochet!

 

To start, a magic ring is created by wrapping the yarn around your fingers twice. Then hold the loop between your thumb and forefinger to start the foundation row.

 

Row 1:  ch1, dc 6 into a magic ring

 

After you've completed the 6 dc sts, pull the end yarn to tighten the loop.

 

slip stitch (sl st) at the end of the row. (You'll need to do this at the end of each row) after the last dc, insert your hook into the first stitch. Draw the yarn through both loops.

 

Honestly I always find the first sl st the hardest of all the rows, persevere its worth it!

 

 

Row 2:  ch 1 (dc2 into each st) rpt 6 times, sl st to finish.   You'll have a total of 12 sts, don't count the first chain as a stitch. 

 

 

Row 3:  ch1 (dc1,  dc2 into the next st) rpt 6 times, sl st to finish. You'll have a total of 18 sts

 

Row 4: ch1 (dc2, dc2 into the next st) rpt 6 times, sl st to finish. You'll have a total of 24 sts

 

Row 5: ch1 (dc3, dc2 into the next st) rpt 6 times, sl st to finish. You'll have a total of 30 sts

 

 

Can you see the pattern forming. I get excited at this point. The base is almost complete.

 

 AHHH, not so excited, i've hit a snag. This is part and parcel of recycled/ repurposed yarns. it happens. It's an easy fix and won't show up in your final product.

 

 

Untie the knot and cut off any scrap ends you don't need. Always try and minimise your waste if you can.

With your working yarn start the next dc st, but don't draw the final yarn through the two loops.

 

Instead draw the new yarn through the two loop to complete the st.

Now hold the two end yarns against your work as you continue to work the row. I am a big believer in tidying my ends up as I go. Purely driven by my strong dislike of weaving in ends.

 

Keep the ends in the 

 Stop and take a look at your work. You shouldn't see a significant difference between your stitches. Have a look at the font and back images. 3 stitches have been worked since adding the new yarn.

I usually only hide the yarn between 4/5 stitches, I haven't found I need any more than that. 

 

Keep the ends dangling as you continue to work the row. they can be cut off later on. Don't cut them too early incase they pop up through your work

 

 Now... back to the pattern.

 

Row 6- 9: ch1, dc into each st, sl st to finish. You'll have a total of 30 sts

 

Can you see, by not increasing the edges will start the curl up. They may need a little coaxing but as you continue to work the rows even, the walls will be easier to manipulate.

 

I wanted a shallow basket, but by all mean keep going taller if you have the yarn and desire a taller/ deeper basket.

 

At the end of the final row. Don't sl st to finish. Cut the yarn to a length of approx 6 inches. Pull the yarn through so there's no loop.

 

 

Either use a big tapestry needle or your hook to draw the yarn through the back of the first st.

 

I like to start at the back, but it doesn't matter whether you start back to front or front to back. Just mirror the instructions, if you choose to go the other way.

 

To complete the loop, now draw the yarn from the top, through the front loop of the last st.